CSP 1st Generation RX-7 Project 2011 SSCC CSP Club Champion
2011 CSP ChampionCSP Record for CSP Hill Climb
Results and upcoming 2012 Events
Results for 2011
Results for 2010

I purchased Bryan Nemy's CSP Mazda RX-7.  This was a 12a powered car with Weber carburetor induction (single 40 DCOE), stock 5 speed gear box and live axle. We originally purchased the car as a mule for eventually building a rotary powered DM car but it is proving to be so fun that I'm not sure we'll be going down that road.

Bryan purchased this car new in 1979, autocrossed for a number of years until lying fallow around 2004.  It is a GS model with rear disk brakes retrofitted from a 1981 model. 
Just Picked up The Car
 
First event photos at Oakland in February 2009
 
I have modified the car to get more grip by removing the rear anti-roll bar and installing longer front lower control arms to get negative camber in the front.  I've also designed a rig to do the toe adjustment by strings either in or outside the trailer.  Also removed the front spoiler for more clearance and easier access to the front
 

Last weekend's event at Alameda.  Beautiful Location and car did well, despite a couple of issues, one of which was the tires totally giving up on Sunday.  New lower control arms for more negative camber and removal of the rear anti-roll bar helped a lot. (Mary Pozzi Photos)

Picked up a set of  8 x 13" Revolution  Wheels, sourced some lug nuts from Puerto Rico and installed  the new Kumho 215/50-13" tires on  them  preparing  to  run the Duel at DeAnza this coming weekend.  Found one of the front wheel studs had been  stripped.   Rather than heli-coil it, felt I  needed  to  either replace the rotors (bearings, hub, rotor in one) or as  an alternative, use the later model hubs,  struts and rotors  off Bob's  donor car,  which is a 1984.  Had to  change  the struts due to  different outer wheel bearing size so that necessitated replacing  the inserts.  Being they were  different  size, replacing them with later model struts allowed the installation of adjustable  (5 way) Tokico Illuminas in the  front which were  previously not  adjustable so this seemed a good upgrade.  One of the  struts however, had a pretty  well stretched threaded end so  it required some "creative" work to  be able to  tighten the strut nut.  So far,  looks like we're  fine.  So, we replaced all 4 disks, put in  new Hawk HP+ pads, replaced the front struts and inserts and re-packed the front wheel bearings.

In preparation for the hill climb in Ashland Oregon  in  June, I installed racing seat belts and shoulder harness and a  fire extinguisher in  the  car...also was  able to  lower the driver's seat  about 1" and move  it  back about  the same, so hopefully I'll fit just a bit better in  the car.

Took the tow up to the State of Jefferson for the June 13th and 14th at the Cascade Lakes Hillclimb in Ashland Oregon.  My first ever hillclimb and finished 1st as well as setting a class record for the hill.  Most fun event I've gone to.  Hill climbs "rock"!  Rained on Saturday so I was substantially behind.  Was dry on Sunday and pulled out a 2 second win as unknown to me, they take the fastest time from the whole weekend rather than the cumulative fastest times from both days.

Found a number of issues needing addressing from needing a good rain tire setup (the Toyos suck!) to needing a new truck to tow with (overheating issues that won't go away).  Also need the 13b engine for pulling the hills.  Hillclimbs in particular, reward HP to weight as well as torque pulling out of corners...power is king on the hill if you can hook up.
 



Sponsored by the Siskiyou Sports Car Club.  Great people, great event!
Part of the Northwest Hillclimb Association Series

Hill Map: RX-7/images/Course Map.pdf
Finish Card: RX-7/images/Finish Card.pdf

2009 4th of July photos at Marina AAS event - didn't run Sunday due to issues identified with rear end needing attention (needs an LSD that works, axle seals leaking, severe axle tramp under braking...needs 3 link setup.  Plan to pull the car from competition until making these modifications.



I've just sourced a 13b engine out of a GSL-SE from Dennis Hale.  I'll be pulling the engine on Wednesday then taking a close look to see if it is serviceable or will need rebuilding (most likely).  It will need a new induction system, looking at putting the 600 CFM Holley. Bob also has the fuel pump we need on the shelf.  We'll also need new headers and complete exhaust.  The 6 port 13b should produce considerably more power and torque.  Found out the 12a produced 87 RWHP, anemic to be sure but certainly felt like more than that.  The stock 12a is supposed to produce 100hp and the 13b 135hp so it should be a nice improvement, particularly for hillclimbs.

Details and photos of the retrofit will follow.

 
One project - trying to get some fender clearance and making some of the dents not so bad.  Could use fender flares but don't have the money right now...will install 240Z flares at some later date.


Just did a few dyno runs to baseline the 12a in anticipation of the 13b conversion before next season.  This is what we found:
RX-7/images/RX7 12a Dyno Runs.pdf
87.0 HP at the rear wheels...pathetic!!

Given most CSP Miatas that weigh 200-300 pounds less to start with make 145-160 HP at the rear wheels. The 13b should be a nice improvement even if it won't make the power the Miatas do, let alone the weight problem.  Still, the car is so fun, can't help but keep on with the project, even if I have two Miatas in the stable right now.

Just installed the three link and panhard setup.  Should be trying it this weekend.  Took off the exhaust from the resonator back to be able to do the work...ended up making a quick shortie SuperTrapp temporarily.  The rear-end is way different with this setup...Keeping fingers crossed.
 
Verdict: EXCELLENT!  The car is a lot more predictable, far less (none) inside rear wheel spin, reduced rear axle hop/tramp and much better rear grip.  It was a lot less dramatic a change than I expected so I really have not gotten comfortable with the car yet but will do so with more seat time.  It did exhibit a bit of slower speed understeer under certain conditions which I didn't want to try and dial out yet but in the fast slaloms and sweepers the car is quite good.  Things will no doubt change a lot when the 13b is installed and the power goes up almost double...I'm looking forward to having that problem!

Next project will be to install a rear-brake bias valve to try and mitigate rear axle hop by reducing the amount of braking to the rear.  We had the problem before installing the 3-link and panhard and it is a lot better but still needs addressing.  The other option that I might do is lower the rear of the trailing arms where they attach to the differential housing to help.  This is really what needs to be done but I'm trying to work around it first.  I'll probably get that project done during the lay-off between seasons when doing the 13b installation.

Installation of the bias-valve was relatively straight forward. Cutting and double flaring was required to put new flair nut on two ends of the tubes.  Bending a some new tubes and existing tubes alllowwed me to put the RF right to the master cylinder so no union was necessary.  the results between this and the other adjustments: NO AXLE HOP!!!  Can now dial in some more rear brake.

Photo of the valve installed ------------------------------->

I also measured the rear springs to get an idea of what they are...it appears they are around 128# per inch.  I know from running last time we need more rear spring...will look into what I can find to increase the rear a bit.  After trying the car today, found a number of problems solved and a number created.   3rd link was rubbing on the driveshaft.  Made an ajustment but went the wrong way.  Fixed that and should solve that problem with stiffer rear springs and just a bit more rear ride height.

Found two sets of springs at 158 and 190# respectively...given the panhard and roll center movement is supposed to be around 25# per inch and having 2" of adjustment, it would then seem the 190# the better choice putting the rate just a bit stiffer (which it needs to be) over the last setup when putting the panhard on the lowest roll center setting...should be interesting. (Note 5/2010...ended up with 200# springs in the rear...finally satisfied with the suspension setup.)


We were also able to take the time to replace the 40 DCOE with a 45 DCOE that Bob had lying around.  Took some time to do the job but were able to get it put on and make it idle reasonably well.  We'll be trying all this tomorrow at an event in Marina on 11/22/2009.  Hopefully we can find some improvement.  I know the rear end is a lot better but not providing much more speed yet.  May take some seat time.

Had some problems with the center link hitting the driveshaft.  Made a panhard adjustment but went the wrong way so it continued.  We also raised the rear panhard rod 2" both ends and that made a BIG difference in handling (picked up a full second with this mod).  The car obviously needs stiffer rear springs which I've got on order.  The brakes were darn good...no axle hop at all.  Feel we can add a bit more rear brake now.

Made the trailing arm modification to lower the rear at the differerntial to try and eliminate rear steer in toward the turn.  This made the steering vague and induced understeer, particularly on tight turns.  The angle downward toward the front was too much.  I'm shooting for a slightly downward angle toward the rear which induces rear steer toward the outside of the turn which can induce oversteer if too accute but will see how much I changed it with this setup.  (Note: nice improvement again)


Car feels a lot stiffer in the rear now...can't bottom it out any more bouncing on the bumper so it should be a lot better.


The rear springs have helped A LOT!  We can now "tweak" the rear grip by adjusting up or down, the panhard and roll center for how much rear grip we need.  Looks like we'll end up right in the middle of the adjustability of the rear roll center for the time being but may change once the 13b is installed, which in my opinion, may require stiffer rear springs yet.  With this setup, no inside wheelspin at all! (LSD needs rebuilding...no patience, time or money to do it yet...hence, inside wheelspin issues)

Some later photos:

The latest ones are with the body side molding missing. I removed it for weight and to be able to fix some of the dents.

The brake bias valve eliminated the rear wheel/axle hop completetly.  We can dial in how much rear brake now just to the point of wheel hop and back it off...works perfectly!



So far, so good...now, on to the 13b conversion.  I picked up the motor we'll be using due to the other donor having over 275,000 miles on it.  This donor 'only' has 90,000.  Ordered all the Racing Beat parts needed for the conversion which included Holley 4 Barrel setup, cross member, ordered competition motor mounts along with a torque arm setup, new headers of course to fit the 13b, for which I'll have to fabricate the rest of the exhaust for, hopefully Bob will have a fuel pump setup to work with this intake as that and a new clutch disk is all that should be missing (along with the rest of the exhaust parts) from doing the conversion which we'll get started on in the next couple of weeks.  Want to have this done before the first Ashland Hill Climb in June and some testing on the autocross course first.

Photos showing how it's come so far from the donor to being ready to install along with the most recent photos after installation.

After Installation After fitting and welding
in car After painting After Fitting

Most recent mods include going to 200# rear springs which solved the handling issues (raised the rear just a little); just built a rear spoiler which should help on the hills mostly; replaced the accelerator pump nozzles in the Holley due to having some secondary tip-in hesitation...is better but still needs more tuning.

Car is fun, coming along...I like it!

Duel at De Anza 2010  New Spoiler Installed

Just finished running the Ashland/Conde Creek Hill Climb again last weekend and even though there were some problems, car did well taking 7 seconds off last year's winning time and record (I was hoping for 10 seconds but no way of knowing not having been able to run on Sunday), winning over 2nd place by a mere half a second.  We only got two runs in on Saturday and were set to run in the afternoon on Sunday (preferable for better grip) but a Super V broke an oil line and spread oil over a number of high speed corners so we decided not to risk the car on a probably slower course.

The new 255/45-13 Hoosiers I ordered fit the rims fine but didn't find until trying to put them on, that the wheels don't fit on the car due to the center hole being too small to fit over the hub-centric portion of the hubs both front and rear, not to mention the inside of the rim hitting the outer tie-rod ball joint on the front.  The weel spacers I had were't enough to help so I wasn't able to run the new tires and had to do the event on the year-old worn out Kumhos I ran on last year (which I like but as you can see from this photo, are considerably smaller than the new Hoosiers).

Kumho v. Hoosiers Note...this is not a photo of my tires but the same comparison from someone else on 8" rims for both.  I've got 9" rims for the Hoosiers.

We had some other issues that included cutting out under full throttle from about 4500-6000 RPM...once past that RPM ran good but makes it a bit of an issue particularly on the hill climbs.  I will be trying some larger jets in the Holley to see if I can sort that out in due course.  The motor is smoking quite a bit too so I'm thinking it may be worn enough to need replacing for next season but I want to get the running issues sorted first so we don't have a new motor running badly.

Handling was good but the crapping out and bad synchro in 3rd make me work at it.  Also seemed to be geared to be between 2nd and 3rd gears...no way to solve that within the rules though. (I actually got into 4th gear for a short period of time which is over 100 mph at one section on the course).

Weekend photos:

 

 New Class Record

Left the car in Medford to do some testing for the next event they were having toward the end of July.  It was WAY hot when we got there...showed 103 degrees in the afternoon but did get some testing in on Saturday.  The car's handling felt excellent but the carb was still acting up and nothing I could do sorted the crapping out problem.  Seemed I could only make it worse whatever I changed but could not make it any better.  I tried different jets, accelerator pump cams, nozzles, different float levels (which seemed to make the most difference...finding that if I lowered the secondary float level a bit, it was a bit better going into the turns but ran out of gas on the exit)...just made the best compromises I could with the changes I tried.

Sunday, Kim got her runs in, killing a squirrel on track and as a consequence, losing a bit of concentration on her last run or two.  When I was able to run, the car started crapping out badly on the first turn...completely dying around many of the turns eventually dying completely and not restarting where I had to coast the last 3 turns and across the finish.  Found out the fuel pump had died.

So, not sure how that affected the attempts at tuning but I decided to do the typical online research and came up with the decision to go with a Carter fuel pump which seemed to have a better bracket for mounting and a different orientation which I thought I could take advantage of in doing a better installation of the fuel pump.  I was very satisfied with the install but noticed the fuel pressure being a bit higher than what we consider needed (lowest 6 psi up to 8 psi) but decided to go ahead and run it at Marina.

Running it at Marina, the car's handling went away.  In Medford, I noticed the front anti-roll bar (sway-bar) end link bushings (polyurethane) were blown out and although mostly still there, expected the top ones to disappear soon, so I decided I needed to replace them and while doing so, go ahead and bend the front bar arms further out to get better alignment on the links.  I found a local machine shop with a hydraulic press and carefully bent out both sides about 1.25" which is about what I measured needed to line up where it should be.  What I wasn't sure of, was whether it would make the front bar work better...either softer or stiffer.  The bushings the bar rotated in were completely dry polyurethane too so I greased those with sticky poly grease as well as new link bushings and longer sleeves to make the setup line up better.  Well, what I found out is it made the front bar work enough better (stiffer) to upset the balance of the car making it understeer pretty annoyingly.  So that needed repar as did the carb still not working well.

What I determined, it seemed that the crapping out in the carb was due to the dual plane manifold separating the 5th and 6th ports from the primary center ports and given the big difference in port timing, it seemed that when opening the secondaries manually with the Holley double pumper, the port timing was so much difference it really crapped out before overcoming the vacuum it took to bring the port timing in during acceleration.  My idea was to blend the primary and secondary so the 5th and 6th port timing was already in play and there not be such a difference in port timing when opening the secondaries to screw up the acceleration.  So, I got a 1" phenolic spacer and cut out the middle between each primary and secondary hole to see how that would affect the situation.  I also got an open spacer but thought I might try that later.  Anyway, I also modified the carb putting in the cross over float vent tube (not too simple...required drilling out the existing vent tubes and lowering the primary height to fit)...to alleviate any potential overflow through the vents.  These two mods should help. 

Upon starting the car, it certainly does seem to be very different from before.  It doesn't seem to crap out like it did before and although there is a bit of a bog if hitting the secondaries from idle, it seems to rev nicely at anything over idle wihtout the previously exhibited crapping out it had before.  Proof will be in the running next weekend but from what it sounded like, it appears it may now be tunable when it wasn't before.  If so, there is a lot to do in manifold porting and such...will post the results after running the car. (Also put in 50# stiffer rear springst to compensate for the balance change with the front bar modification...hopefully, I didn't go too stiff).

After enough work, patience and trying various different solutions, I have given up on trying to make the Holley Carb setup work on this car for autocrossing.  I got it where it could go straight very well but not around corners so it is going away.

THE SOLUTION TO THE HOLLEY: GO WEBER!

I've ordered a wrap-over intake manifold from Atkins and a Weber 48 DCO from Webersdirect to put on the car and get away from spending so much time getting the drivability needed for autocrossing.  We might (but I doubt it) lose a bit on the hill climbs as I think the Holley might make more top end power, but is not worth it given the crapping out it does on every corner.

Intake manifold got here...casting isn't  very good and there are no vacuum ports in it at all, so I've port matched the manifold to a certain extent, opened up the bolt holes so it will mount, modified the manifold gasket as the manifold has blended both the 5th and 6th ports with the end housing ports...this will require some port matching later when the engine is done and blending the two ports at the bridge between them for better intake flow.

So far, this is where I'm at:
As delivered As delivered with gasket showing port mis-match
Carb should be here tomorrow.  I'll have to figure out what to do for linkage, not sure what velocity stacks come with it, if any, sort an air cleaner and re-route the fuel supply and return hoses.  Should be ready to run this weekend and I should get a good idea how it seems then.

I've ordered different jets, needle and so forth to have a better base-line from which to tune the car. 

Hopefully, we'll have some time to get it on the dyno to tune it before running toward the end of September.

Carb came on Thursday...couldn't find any linkage setup that would work connecting the stock throttle cable so had to make my own.  This is where I'm at today.  I've moved the fuel pressure regulator to the firewall...drilled and tapped the intake manifold for the brake-booster and vacuum fitting for the fuel pressure regulator...made the linkage bracket (looks simple but took some doing, belive me!) and hooked up the linkage similarly to how the Holley worked.

The carb didn't fit on the manifold (like the manifold didn't fit on the engine...very poor quality manifold work!) but I was able to "pursuade" it by enlarging the holes a bit and "relieving" the carb throttle bodies a bit where the nuts and washers are supposed to go.  I've set this up to be "soft mounted" with "O" rings and spacer...have those and hope everything will fit when all is said and done.  I will have to do some "customizing" of the mount washers (they're too big in diameter to fit) and have ordered some small head AN aircraft locknuts to fit the studs. (the studs that came with the carb are metric...the holes drilled in the manifold are SAE, so nothing fits as it is supposed to without some special fabrication of some sort.  I ended up using the studs that came with the Holley as they are SAE but 5/16-18 to fit the manifold and 5/16-24 to bolt the carb down and fortunately, they make the 5/16-24 aircraft nuts (AN-5 I think) that should give me the clearance needed.  They use a 3/8" wrench instead of 1/2" and are flange head with .520" diameter flanges on them...so should work. 

This is where I'm at so far. 

I've ordered fittings and 3/8" hose to do a new fuel return line.  The stock one was 6mm and far too small to be of much use at this volume of fuel so this should help with the fuel pressure regulation.  From the looks of it, the small return line is what they used to regulate the fuel pressure...who knows.

So far, I've not found an adequate air-cleaner solution so for now, won't run one.  I ordered the screens that attach to the velocity stacks but according to Bob, they really restrict the inlet.  I will probably not use them unless testing on the dyno and finding otherwise.  The only other solution I can see is going to shorter velocity stacks (not cheap but they do make 35mm tall ones (v. 60mm ones that are on the carb now) then the K&N filter will work...otherwsie, I won't use it as it is less than an inch from the velocity stack to the end plate of the air-cleaner and this can't possibly be good for air-flow (in my mind anyway).

Well, it runs now.  Final parts came from Pegasus today.  Took the usual amount of “customization”.  There was a lot of fuel dumping out the intake when first turning on the fuel pumps…not sure what that was about but seems to have stopped.  Idle isn’t that great but tolerable…kind of like having a long duration cam in the car. This was expected being there is no isolation between the middle and end housing ports.  The sixth ports have a lot of overlap (close very late) so no wonder.  The Holley had primaries and secondaries that dealt with that issue but we shall see if it matters at all. Had some interesting stuff go on during fire up but seems to be ok now.  Car will bog badly on full throttle from an idle but doesn’t seem to have any crapping out like I experienced when revving it statically with the Holley and from middle to higher rpm, seems ok so far.  Has a lot of “stand-off” if giving it throttle…might be a fire hazard without an air cleaner so will look into that in due course.  Still don’t know what to set the float level at…no information anywhere on these floats for this carb. 

Will see if I can get some dyno time before running the end of the month at Marina.

We had a good session tuning the RX-7 over at Bob’s on Saturday.   Did quite a few “tweaks” to the carb including larger accelerator pump jets, longer stroke accelerator pump rod, different accelerator pump bypass/exhaust jet.  We didn’t change the mains and air-correction jets I had previously installed but did replace the needle and seat with the one that came with the carb due to the new one I put in was poorly made and had some chatters in the drilling causing it to leak…exhibit the lack of quality in after-market parts.

Bob installed his UEGO and checked A/F ratios which seem to be in the ball park and drove the car on a few test runs checking same.  His input was VERY positive saying it is a huge improvement over the Holley.

Interestingly, I sourced online an article on some dyno work that was done comparing some after-market throttle bodies to a Dellorto side draft (assuming it is the typical 48 on the top half wrap around on stock half bottom manifold) and to the Holley.  What the results showed was that both the fuel injection and Holley produced more power at maximum rpm, in the middle the Dellorto out performed both the others by quite a bit.  The cross over for the throttle bodies was at 6500-6700 rpm, for the Holley was about 7200 rpm.  At 6500 the Dellorto put out what appears to be about 15-20 hp more than the Holley though which tapers down to around 5500 rpm where they appear to both make about the same.  The difference is less between the Dellorto and the throttle bodies though showing what appears to be about an average of maybe 10 hp more for the Dellorto from about 4700 rpm up to the cross over, which is rather abrupt at 6500 rpm at which time the throttle bodies continue to approve and from about 7000 rpm on appears to make about 15 hp more than the Dellorto.  The most it appears the Holley makes more than the Dellorto is around 10 hp at 8000…we don’t go much beyond that so where the Dellorto falls off at about 8300 is relatively meaningless.  Further, I think our 40 Weber DCO and the one piece wrap over manifold will produce better results than the Dellorto and the manifold they used…just a guess although probably wouldn’t be much.  All in all, an interesting report even if on a “street ported” engine (ours is stock and will produce quite a bit less in the power department…not sure how that would affect the differences but one would think it would be relative).

The drivability is more important than the power…it will be interesting to see how it goes around corners...hopefully without crapping out like the Holley which was impossible in that regard...went in a straight line well but we go around corners.

I haven’t driven it yet but will on Sunday at the UFO Marina event…I’m looking forward to it…Bob was suitably impressed.

Ran very well...BIG improvement in drivability.  Still needs further tweaking and of course we still have the other mods that need to be done including aluminum flywheel (have now...need to install with new clutch); transmission with synchros that work (we'll replace the trans at the same time we install the flywheel...we've got two spares but not sure what condition they're in); LSD needs rebuilding so it actually limits the slip...

We just ran AAS in Santa Clara and the car was REAL good but we did cord one of the front tires so they are shot.  The Hoosiers lasted half as long as the Kumhos and cost 25% more so we'll be going back to the Kumhos...the Kumhos feel better too and we seem to be better able to find the appropriate tire pressures, have less rubber and rock pick up so less maintenance as well.  From a per run standpoint...it appears the Hoosiers are almost 3 times the cost over the Kumhos too.  We'll get a new set just before next season and will rotate the Hoosiers on the rims to finish out the couple of events left this year.

I just purchased an aluminum flywheel and corresponding stock-size clutch and anticipated putting them in along with one of the spare gear-boxes to see if we have one with synchros that work.  I know we've got two more spares but will try the one out of the car to see if it is good or not...need to know one way or the other.  Aluminum flywheel will save aobut 10# over the stock setup but inertia will be further enhanced by the 4# counterweight being more toward the centerline of the eccentric shaft so I'm looking at having a lot better acceleration with this setup.  We'll also try yet a larger accelerator pump nozzle as we're already bigger than the largest made so we'll drill a pair to see if we can continue improving the Weber brief flat-spot (car now backfires like a bitch on deceleration too!).  So far, I'm real pleased with everything we've done (except for the Holley but mistakes will be made).  Car is fun to drive, handles very well, needs more grip but overall happy with the balance and drivability improvements made.

Bob stepped up to the plate and did the aluminum flywheel install.  Had some "issues" with throw-out bearing clearance.  Found out the pressure plate sent with the flywheel was thicker at the fingers than it should have been so it wouldn't work.  We decided to use the stock pressure plate we had which looked fairly new when we put it on so I'll have to see if I can send back the higher capacity pressure plate for a refund.  So got the motor in with the replacement spare transmission I got with the Spec RX7 car.  Found out it was a later model transmission like the others we have and is longer than the early 1st gen in the car.  This means we had to cut the transmission tunnel to fit it into the car but a good modification to do given the better availability of the later transmissions and the fact we have two others in case this one turns out to not be a good one.  Also found the new transmisson mount raised the back of the transmission jsut a little so we had a few (and still have) exhaust clearance problems.  We'll also have to figure out how to fabricate a new transmission to tunnel boot setup.  I ordered from Summit a Hurst generic part as well as a Nomex outer boot...will replace the on-transmission boot as well so there should be three total once done.  Bob will work on the fabrication before we run the car hopefully Sunday in Oakland.  He did test drive the car around the neighborhood (at Bob's...neighbors must be annoyed) and said it seemed good...transmission seems to have synchros so far and it certainly seems to rev quicker as it should with 10# less rotating mass on the flywheel! 

I'm hoping to make one more season on this engine which smokes badly.  We identified it having a "weak" rotor (#2) when we got it but doesn't use all that much oil.  So, hopefully, we can sort all the other issues next season then do the engine in the 2011 off-season and then the car should be good for at least 10 seasons with just maintenance and whatever we might break.  We shall see. 

Ran the first event with the new flywheel.  Bob was the only one that drove and got 1st place in CSP.  Had traction problems on the slick surface and worn-out tires but still did well enough.  Was only a bit over 2 seconds slower than the overall fastest car out of 142.

Slush 3, Bob 1st Place Bob 1st, Slush 3 in 2010 Bob 1st Slush 3 2010

The LSD was re-packed with thicker plates before the last event.  Due to my having back surgery in December 2010, I still haven't driven since (since Oct. 2010) putting in the new aluminum flywheel, replaced transmission with synchros that work and now with an LSD that should work a lot better.  Our tires were shot but last time out in February (Boondoggle) Bob said it was fine, no suggested adjustments...didn't sound like it crapped out on hard cornering (I came to the conclusion that our cutting out problem on cornering was related to the pickup in the stock tank not picking up under hard cornering with low fuel so we'll be running with about 1/2 tank from now on.

Finally ordered and received a new set of Hoosiers but decided to go narrower to the 225/50-13 instead of the 255/45-13 we were previously running.  They wore funny (the Kumhos wore perfectly but I didn't want to put 2005 manufactured tires on the car which are the ones Tire Rack is still selling) and I couldn't get a good handle on the tire pressures (typical problems I've always seemed to have with Hoosiers) although pretty much got them were they seemed to be good just before cording the tires.  The new tires will be 1" taller but 1" narrower than the 255s and the same size as the Kumhos except about .8" taller, which I think might prove to be an advantage for off-corner grip v. cornering grip.  I will be putting them on the 9" Keizer wheels the 255s were on, which are considerably lighter than the 8" Revolutions we ran with the Kumhos.  I rebuilt the Keizers as they were leaking (typical) and I hope they will now hold air.  I had this problem with my last set of Keizers, even when new from the factory...I fixed those the same way by taking them apart, cleaning them pu and sealing them properly so we'll see.  Next round out may be at Marina/AAS but we're entered in the Medford Oregon "Enduro" for the weekend of the 18th of March regardless.  We'll have Saturday to practice and try to get up to speed before the Sunday event.  Hoping for good weather!

I'm looking forward to getting back to the fun of driving for all this work and investment...after not driving for almost 6 months!